by Hannah Wardle
Charcoal has been used for centuries in medicine, and is included in the World Health Organisation Model List of Essential Medicines. Today it’s one of the hottest trends in the world of beauty, and you can find it in thousands of products including acne-fighting skincare treatments.
But can adding activated charcoal - otherwise known as activated carbon - to your skincare routine really help to treat acne and clear your skin?
What is activated charcoal?
Charcoal can come in many forms - the coal commonly used for fuel is a naturally occurring type of sedimentary rock, whereas the charcoal used in skincare products has been ‘activated’. Activated charcoal is typically produced either through gas activation (a process of carbonising the raw material at a high temperature before exposing it to oxygen/steam to oxidise the carbon), or chemical activation (raw material such as sawdust or peat is simultaneously carbonised and oxidised with an added chemical agent). This process produces millions of tiny holes in the surface of the charcoal which allow it to absorb chemicals and toxins like a sponge. As Ansari et al. note, activated carbon ‘is a well known adsorbent that can be used efficiently for removal of a broad spectrum of pollutants from air, soil and liquids.’ This is why activated charcoal is used in skincare products. Its porous nature and large surface area make it ‘like blu-tack for dirt’, according to Dr. Michelle Wong, suggesting it may help to draw out impurities in the skin.
Can activated charcoal clear your acne?
Because of its absorptive qualities, activated charcoal might be a helpful ingredient to use when treating breakouts and clearing spot-prone skin. It binds together the bacteria, oil and toxins which cause breakouts, and draw these out of the skin. Many of its properties can help fight the main causes of acne.
How does activated charcoal work to clear acne?
Absorbing excess oil.
Activated charcoal can prevent breakouts and spots by absorbing excess sebum. Sebum is the oil naturally produced by your skin that can clog pores, potentially leading to conditions such as Sebaceous Hyperplasia.
Exfoliating dead skin.
A 2019 study found activated charcoal (when used in a peel-off face mask) to be effective in ‘enhancing the cleansing of the skin by removing dead skin on the surface.’ If not removed, this dead skin can trap in dirt and toxins, leading to acne.
Cleansing the skin.
Makeup, air pollution and bacteria can all leave your pores full of acne-causing bacteria. The same 2019 study showed activated charcoal to be ‘capable of enlarging the pores and enhancing the cleansing of the skin’ when used in a peel-off mask.
Drawing out toxins and bacteria.
According to Dr. Josh Axe, activated charcoal ‘binds with environmental toxins and dirt that contribute to acne’.
Is activated charcoal safe to use on the skin?
There have been no reported negative effects of activated charcoal when used on the skin. Though it is considered generally safe, activated charcoal is ‘not recommended for chronic oral intake.’
How to use activated charcoal to treat acne
The best way to use activated charcoal to help clear your skin is in the form of a skin treatment, like a mask, which can be left on the skin to draw out impurities before being washed off with warm water. Shop Kokoa’s Simple Charcoal & Clay Mask here!
So there you have it! Activated charcoal’s absorbent and exfoliating qualities make it a helpful ingredient for cleansing the skin and preventing future breakouts.